Author's Note: Minutes after I hit publish on this essay, as if the weather gods were listening, things outside began to go a little haywire. Thursday dawned cooler, cloudy, with the promise of storms. The next few days will be much cooler, especially for August. The pen is mightier, in this case, than the heat wave.
In late June of this year, just a bit over a month ago, as the summer solstice was being celebrated, Beartooth Pass in Montana got just over 10 inches of snow in a weekend. The storm downed trees, knocked out power, caused travel delays, flooding, and disrupted people's summer barbecues. What might have been a typical cold snap formed into one extremely weird, singularly unseasonal, intense weather event.
In places like Montana, during the correct seasons, snowfall of this degree is as common as mosquitoes in my yard. There have been some warmer winters and some colder ones, cracking the averages, but late June is deep into the year to get this kind of (literally) flakey weather, even in Big Sky country.
Beartooth Pass arises as a topic because we had an incredibly early weather event in my part of the world last week that, despite its place in the seasonal year, was as unusual and noteworthy as the Montana storm. It did not tear things up or stop transportation or electrical service. It was nevertheless profound. At least for me.
For years, I have been thinking about and talking about a change that occurs mid-to-late summer, where the incoming fall season shows itself to be clearly, obviously there, just biding its time. If one knows what to look for, it can be quite a delightful discovery, especially when the days are otherwise endless and oppressive.
In other seasons, these changes can be quite apparent. In deep winter, the blooming daffodils betray the coming of spring. In late autumn, the last of the falling leaves and the arrival of frosty mornings betray the oncoming of winter. Perhaps it is the lack of foliage that makes these changes more prominent in the other seasons. Summer tends to crowd the seasonal changes occurring in its domain with deep green leaves and scorching temperatures, but they are happening.
Going outside right now, you will see evidence only for summer. Verdant landscapes, yellowjackets, mosquitoes, poison mixed in with the English ivy, black-eyed susans popping, the heavy rasping of cicadas, and the swamp-like heat and humidity of the Dog Days. Like any rational person, you would likely pull your head back inside where the temps are reasonable and opt not to go back out until October, at least.
However—and please stay with me here—look again. Try to notice the underlying changes. Gone is the white-hot brightness of June. The sun has taken on a golden light. The sky, when not shrouded with iron storm clouds, has an autumnal cerulean tint. At twilight, you will notice that the shadows are getting ever so slightly longer. Are those crickets? Behold all the little webs woven by hungry spiders on the box elder bushes. There is even an aroma, if you know what to sniff for. The robust, verdant scent of chlorophyll at its ripest.
Practiced senses can (and in my case do) note all these changes in my mental calendar. I'm perpetually looking for evidence. Sure, it's only late July, but the signs are there. Every now and then, too, July or early August renders up a whole day full of evidence of the coming seasonal change. When that happens my heart thrums with the joy of its prophetic song.
Tuesday last week dawned like any other summer weekday. From the windows, appraising the grey light of the predawn world, it looked like summertime. Taking the dogs out to the little grass patch for their morning relief, though, I noticed something refreshingly unusual: it was chilly.
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In the South, summers begin with a gentle warm up. It can still be cool in the evenings, but May doesn't bring much humidity with it. The days get warm, but only pleasantly so. After a long winter and brisk spring such weather can feel truly welcoming. There arrives the promise of long afternoons in the pool, and by the grill, fireworks and baseball games. The beautiful warmth betrays the coming reality. All too soon, humidity will blanket the land and stifle respiration, cause lots of perspiration and generally make everyone miserable. As the season progresses, it becomes positively, arrestingly swampy. Going outside is like plunging one's head into a sauna. For asthmatics like myself, the air quality declines with the heat and the combination makes it like one trying to breathe on an alien world.
An 80 degree day in May is warm and delightful. Take a book to a sunny spot. Recline in the green grass. Enjoy the weather. An 80 degree day in July or August, and you just want to climb into your freezer bin and stay there until at least September's second half. I feel this sincerely and keenly. This past weekend, forgoing my usually lovely lie-in on most Saturday mornings, I togged up in my groundskeeper gear and mowed our North Yard while the sun was still low on the horizon.
Upsetting as this was for the neighbors who were trying to laze the morning away, I had no choice. The yard had become a serious jungle and there were rumors that another heat wave was settling over the region, meaning that the next time I would be able to get out and mow without dying of heat exhaustion would be weeks in the future.
By the time I completed my work, I was exhausted. It's depressing. At this apogee of the solar year, we could have two more solid months of hot weather ahead. Peppered into this pressure cooker world will undoubtedly be a series of hurricanes that will alternately drench and thicken the outdoors with sultry, bayou-thick air.
So, I did what any rational person would. I went inside, stripped out of my drenched work clothes, sudsed up with Dawn dish soap to kill the oil from poison ivy and dislodge ticks and then put on clean clothes and hung out in the den with Micki and the pups where it was cool and dry.
My memory, as I sat there pouring over the paperback, kept lurching back to Tuesday morning. Brief, quiet, likely unnoticed, it hung there in my mind. A tiny promise of the future. Cool, calm, autumnal, clear, dry and full of that perfect atmosphere of fall. Was it a devastating snow storm? No. Did it unmoor the power or break transportation? Not at all. All it did was provide proof that, despite the burdensome, potent, blazing summer sun and humidity, the end of all that is coming soon. In a month and a half, it will be the autumnal equinox. Whether fall weather starts on that moment is doubtful, but it will come and then every morning will be as precious, as glorious, as refreshingly chilly as last Tuesday morning was. Since that's all we're likely to get soon, I'll take it in lieu of a snow storm, probably. Maybe.
I wonder what it costs to fly to Montana?